Foie Gras Outcompetes Champagne

Champagne took a hit in France’s Christmas sales this year—along with other sparkling wines.

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For Christmas celebrations, the French appeared more inclined to spend on food than drinks. (Photo: Backgrounds-for-Ads/stock.adobe.com, created with AI)
For Christmas celebrations, the French appeared more inclined to spend on food than drinks. (Photo: Backgrounds-for-Ads/stock.adobe.com, created with AI)

This holiday season, the French turned their backs on sparkling wine. A study by Circana for the retail association FCD (Fédération du commerce et de la distribution), analyzing purchases of festive products in supermarkets, e-commerce, and convenience stores from December 21 to 28, revealed a notable drop in Champagne sales. Compared to the same period last year, Champagne sales declined by 7.8% in volume and 6% in value. Other sparkling wines, such as Crémants and Prosecco, fared similarly, losing 5.6% in volume and 6% in value.

However, this doesn’t mean the French lost their festive spirit. While overall consumption during this period fell by 2.8%, the festive product category saw a significant boost, with sales up 11.3% in value and 8.3% in volume compared to the previous year.

“These results highlight consumer priorities, focusing on symbolic products for the festive season.”

The standout winner of the holiday season was foie gras, which, as the daily Libération put it, saw sales “explode” (+33.2% in volume and +31.1% in value). Smoked fish, such as salmon and trout, also proved popular, with sales increasing by 6.3% and 10%, respectively.

“These results highlight consumer priorities, focusing on symbolic products for the festive season,” the FCD commented in its press release.

Champagne's weak performance during the holiday season had been foreshadowed earlier in the year. According to another Circana study, Champagne sales in France’s large and mid-sized supermarkets dropped by 13.5% from January to late autumn. The holiday sales period slightly softened this decline, but it seems many French consumers remain discontent with the steep price increases seen in the previous year.

Reports of extraordinary Champagne discounts at year-end were widespread. The industry portal Rayon Boisson noted that Lidl had slashed the price of a bottle of Comte de Senneval to just €9.99. SP

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