If anyone wants an example of how a wine- producing nation can completely reinvent itself, they should look to Spain. Once renowned for Rioja, Sherry and little else, Spain now boasts numerous fashionable and expanding DOs (appellations), and an unprecedented level of exposure in the export arena. Spanish whites are particularly in vogue, with sommeliers the world over selling their allocations of super-trendy Albariño and Godello with ease.
Like the Portuguese wine sector, both domestic and international stakeholders have injected a huge amount of cash into Spain’s wine infrastructure, trying to outdo each other with lavish wineries, vineyard investment and, most importantly, raising the bar in education and placing a new emphasis on terroir. And, like their Portuguese neighbours, the Spanish have coped with a major financial crisis in the last decade, which, paradoxically, has been a vital catalyst for the industry’s growth, forcing wineries to look outwards and upwards.
Of course, the transition to a much more export-focused industry has left casualties in its wake. Prior to the economic meltdown, producers could make relatively small quantities of wines and sell them through a great variety of local wholesale distributors, with the local on-trade driving consumption. Today, however, this model is simply unsustainable; exports are now double that of domestic consumption; within Spain, consumption at home through retailers accounts for more than 60% of the market, while on-trade consumption has fallen to 25%. This is despite a culinary revolution that has swept the nation, with Spanish gastronomy now held in great esteem, both domestically and abroad. There is also much talk of the nation’s bulk wine industry being in ‘substantial crisis’, as former state/EU subsidies have been withdrawn, leading to oversupply.
But on the plus side, tourism numbers remains buoyant, helping to fuel the demand for Spain’s many tapas/wine bars in the bigger cities, and its growing collection of Michelin-starred venues. Indeed, if there is one sector that has really prospered from this seismic shift, it is the luxury segment. Once controlled by one outfit – Vega Sicilia – today there are over 15 labels that command serious prices, with the winemaking style decidedly international in its approach. Those in Spanish society who can afford to drink the prestigious labels would still probably opt for local over foreign – the country has yet to open its doors to imported wines and the market remains tiny, mainly restricted to fine dining venues with a strong international clientele. Importers, therefore, are relatively thin on the ground and the distribution network’s biggest players are the large wine producers, apart from some notable players. In that sense little has changed; modern Spain still displays some of the most rigid, parochial attitudes, in addition to the best, most open-minded ones. Overall though, a tangible sense of optimism hangs in the air.
Notable sommelier: Josep Roca
The Catalan sommelier at the justly celebrated three-Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca trained under the winemaker Josep Lluís Pérez Verdú of Mas Martinet fame. He now works with his two brothers in the kitchen to offer a truly harmonious, seamless food and wine matching experience. An impeccable list offers some of the best Riesling, Champagne, Burgundy, Sherry, and Priorat available, a testament to Roca’s personal favourites which, refreshingly, extend beyond the Peninsula. But what is most remarkable is that despite winning countless awards, including the San Pellegrino Best Restaurant award in 2013, Roca’s approach remains relaxed and unassuming, without a hint of pretension.
Notable restaurant wine list: Atrio
The darling of both Madrid’s well-healed elite and visiting gastronomes, Atrio is possibly the most talked-about restaurant in Spain today, despite its remote location in Extremadura. In this case, however, it is arguably the wine – a gargantuan list put together by sommelier José Polo – rather than simply the cuisine that has earned Atrio the most attention. Atrio is a place that tests a wine writer’s ability to control his or her superlatives – where else in Spain could you hope to encounter Montrachet de la Romanée-Conti 1987, 23 vintages of Pétrus, or 1929 Chateau Lafite? Polo broke new ground in his 200-plus-page extravaganza, offering fine wines from virtually all corners of the globe, including an extended list of Vega Sicilia vintages, legendary Rioja names and old sherries. To find such a diverse list in a country that was traditionally highly suspicious of imported wines is nothing short of remarkable, even in such a high-class address.
Notable Wine Bar: Monvínic
It was Barcelona’s Monvínic that redefined the concept of a wine bar in urban Spain, offering a very contemporary, internationalised experience where visitors order via tablets from an extensive selection of wines by the glass. The cellar reflects the ethos of its owners and showcases fine vintages from across the globe, but with an understandable bias toward Catalunya’s wine regions. The setting merits a mention, a trendy, minimalist (but not clinical) industrial space, complete with a well-stocked library of wine literature and a top restaurant too. An essential part of any visiting oenophile’s itinerary.
In terms of the competition, few can match Monvínic’s range and innovative approach, but if the consumer is happy not to deviate from one brand too much then Torres’ flagship Vinoteca tapas/wine bar in Barcelona merits a mention. All the famous Torres brands are available by the glass in a vibrant, industrial setting, including the range from Chile, accompanied by mouth-watering tapas and larger plates.
Major regional promotional body: Consejo Regulador de la Ribera del Duero
The Consejo Regulador from this venerable region has done much to increase its profile in the export arena over the past decade, acutely aware that the domestic Spanish market was contracting. Rioja may have got in on the export game earlier, but Consejo president Enrique Pascual García has successfully heightened awareness of the Ribera category, achieving particular success with sales in Mexico and the US. With an open-minded approach and a willingness to invest, the Consejo employed New York PR firm Gregory White in August 2009, spending millions on initiatives including social media campaigns, trade education and numerous high-profile events. Their attention has turned to the UK market in recent times, with their inaugural UK promotional campaign that was launched in 2014.
Notable supermarket retailer: El Corte Inglés
Founded in 1940, El Corte Inglés SA is the biggest department store group in Europe, with hundreds of branches in various guises firmly established across urban Spain, in addition to some expansion into the Portuguese market.
Offering a wide selection of consumer goods, the food court stocks an impressive range of both domestic and international wines – in terms of a large choice under one supermarket roof, El Corte Inglés has no equal. There is also a ‘Club del Gourmet’ section, where those with serious sums to spend can satisfy their cravings for fine wines, including old vintages of Vega Sicilia. El Corte Inglés continues to sell the largest volume of wine in retail, with Makro, however, increasingly giving them decent competition.
Notable specialist wine retailer: Lavinia
Just as Monvínic reinvented the concept of visiting a wine bar in Spain, so Lavinia has led the way in revolutionising the wine retail experience. Founded in 1999 by two French businessmen, one of whom was the former President of L’Oréal Spain, the firm now boasts the largest wine premises in Europe in the shape of its Paris store. Expansion into the Swiss and even Ukrainian markets has brought further dividends, as modern consumers flock to these venues where wine buying has been re-branded as a sensory and fun experience.
Indeed, their flagship branch in downtown Madrid is more like a wine theme park than a store; numerous helpful and multilingual staff enthusiastically talk customers through the many nuances of wine regions, wine tastings make a constant appearance and the whole atmosphere is charged with a need to engage, rather than simply sell. Lavinia’s flagship restaurant in Madrid is also regarded as one of the city’s best.
They are also one of the most important online retailers in Spain, a small but growing sector of the wine market.
Barcelona’s Vila Viniteca constitutes the Catalan competition, offering a similar emphasis on gastronomy, a member’s wine club, a large selection of imported and domestic wines and numerous events throughout the calendar year.
The company is all-encompassing, actively involved on a smaller scale in the import, export and distribution of wines in addition to its retail activities.
Notable distributor/importer: Varma
Distribution in Spain is often directly handled by the wine producers themselves, the key players being: Félix Solís, García Carrion, Faustino, United Wineries, Arco, Domecq/Pernod Ricard and Diego Zamora. A notable exception is Varma, which since the 1940s has been Spain’s most important standalone importer and distributor of alcoholic beverages and premium food brands. Varma should be the first port of call for a producer looking to come to grips with the Spanish market.
Notable wine publication: Guía Peñín
José Peñín’s Guía Peñin continues to be the most respected domestic wine publication. Adopting the standard 100-point wine scoring system, Guia Peñin offers the most comprehensive Spanish guide to both domestic and international wines, benefiting from Peñin’s 25-plus-years’ experience. Peñín also created the country’s first magazine solely concerned with wine – Bouquet – in 1980. The most important medium is arguably now his website: guiapenin.com.
Most influential opinion-makers: Luis Gutiérrez and José Peñín.
Spanish consumers are not as interested in the opinions of wine critics as buyers in markets such as the US; however, a small firmament of writers exerts some influence, including José Peñín, the blogger Joaquín Parra and the writers for Spain’s national newspapers ABC and El País: Juan Fernández-Cuesta and Carlos Delgado, respectively. But, the individual whose opinion is most sought after by many brand owners is Luis Gutiérrez, founder of elmundovino.com. Unlike his colleagues, Gutiérrez’s influence and scope extends beyond Spain; from 2011 to 2013, Gutiérrez was the Spanish specialist correspondent for Jancisrobinson.com and today writes for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and eRobertParker.com. Parker’s trusted Spanish confidant covers his home turf, in addition to reviewing wines from Chile and Argentina. Guía Peñín may have more sway with Spanish consumers, but Gutiérrez holds court with Spanish producers looking to gain favour in the key export markets.
