by Ned Goodwin
Vinitaly Japan took place last week at the New Otani Hotel in Tokyo on November 21st. Italy`s presence in Japan continues to strengthen. In the first 8 months of this year, Italian wine exports to Japan came to almost 62.4 million Euro, against 56.4 in the same period last year says Camillo Cametti, director in charge for international affairs of Verona Fiere. In volume this represents about 18.8 million litres, compared to 16.7 million litres in 2005, he adds. Yet, despite the presence of heavy-weights such as Tenuta San Guido`s Sassicaia and Azienda Agricole Montevertine, supported by their influential and well-positioned importer, Enoteca, most of the wines present were indicative of pared down lists of cheap wines that importers were eager to sell - or a swag of wines from producers keen to be positioned in the Japanese market.
Considering the high excise taxes, steep margins and meagre average price per bottle in Japan of 800 Yen, or approximately $7 ( 5.50), it was only natural that most of the wine was lower rung - and much from the south of Italy. It was by no means a showcase of all that Vinitaly connotes. The Italian Trade Commission seemed to have encouraged participation from all and sundry without communicating to either producer or consumer what was to be on show, or what should be shown to justify the largesse of the moniker, Vinitaly, according to prominent sommelier Ozaki Yutaka of Tokyo`s Legato restaurant.
