by Wojciech Boñkowski andTomasz Prange-Barczyñski
Earlier this year Poland was classified in zone A as a winemaking country by the European Union. With plantings exceeding 200 hectares, Poland is slowly becoming a wine nation. Last June the
the Polish Institute of Vine and Wine organized the 1st Convention of Polish Vintners in Warsaw with the Polish wine Magazyn WINO. 49 growers took part - and 28 Polish wines from different regions presented. Currently 80% of vineyards fall within four departments of southern Poland: Lubusz, Lower Silesia, Lesser Poland and Subcarpathia. Yet interesting wines are also produced in the cool Mazurian Lakes region in the northeast of the country where winter temperatures can plummet to -30°C.
Spring frosts and low winter temperatures are major hazards for Polish vineyards, but the crucial problem for producers lies in prohibitive red tape, which make it economically unviable to sell Polish wine. A law change that will ease the bureaucratic stranglehold is still pending. Most vineyards in Poland are smaller than one hectare, and are aimed at agrotourism. The largest estate, Miêkinia close to Wroc³aw, is unique with its 17 hectares.
At the same time, the imported wine market in Poland is blooming, with consumption increasing by 50% in the last few years. The days of a market controlled by a handful of large importers appears to be becoming more competitive. The current trend is towards diversification, as shown by the 1st Annual Wine Festival organized in Warsaw this September by nine independent wine importers, specialized in southern French, Italian, Portuguese, Chilean, Balkan and Georgian wine. This new wave of importers, half of which started their business only within the last year, tend to steer clear of larger brands, looking instead for small family-owned estates from zones such as Languedoc or Slovenia offering good value for money.
